For The Union-Tribune
When we think about holiday appetizers, we tend to go all in on cheese or charcuterie plates, dips with crudité and some kind of easy to eat, breadlike snack, like cheese straws or crostini. But there are other ways to approach a holiday app — and if you come up with the right collection of elements, taken together they could even make for a delicious meal.
That’s what I found when I approached chef Logan Kendall of the new Hillcrest restaurant Cellar Hand. Kendall, who was born and raised in Alabama, has developed a California-meets-Mediterranean approach for his menu. He came up with a trio of dishes that could each be a delightful party appetizer, or collected into a singular and very distinctive meal.
In addition, the various components of each dish can be used to make other dishes, and the main ingredients can easily be swapped out seasonally. This is important to Kendall, who runs a kitchen focused on creating as much as possible from the harvest of local farmers, ranchers and fishermen.
Chef Logan Kendall of Cellar Hand shares appetizer recipes that can be served independently or together as a meal. (Alejandro Tamayo / The San Diego Union-Tribune)
Kendall’s first dish is Sumac Roasted Caulini With Grapefruit, Za’atar Labne and Carrot Top Chermoula. If your first reaction is “huh?” here’s what he’s talking about: Caulini is an Asian-style cauliflower variety that almost looks like a cream-colored version of broccolini — long, tender stalks with a floret at the top.
“I like caulini a lot because, as opposed to broccoli, it soaks up a lot more flavor,” explained Kendall. “And there’s a lot less waste cooking with it than cauliflower. That middle part doesn’t often get used.”
Sumac, of course, is a popular Middle Eastern spice made from ground sumac berries and has a tangy, citrusy flavor. Za’atar is also Middle Eastern, but a mix of spices that varies from country to country. Kendall’s version is heavy on sesame seeds for a lovely crunch. Chermoula is also drawn from the Middle East. Think of it as something like chimichurri — a pungent herb sauce that can be used with grilled fish or meats, but here it is made with carrot tops and served with the roasted caulini.
There’s one other component that also is featured in the next dish: garlic toum. If you’re a garlic lover, youll want to have a container of this in your fridge at all times. It’s simply a condiment made from pureed garlic cloves, salt, grapeseed oil and lemon juice. In this dish you only need a tablespoon, but make the recipe to have on hand for roasted vegetables or chicken or fish. Otherwise, Kendall said you can just mince a couple of tablespoons of garlic.
For this dish, you’ll marinate the caulini in olive oil, sumac, bright and fruity Aleppo pepper, salt and the garlic toum. While that’s marinating, mix together grapefruit zest, labne (a Middle Eastern version of thick yogurt), za’atar and lemon juice. Reserve that and make the Carrot Top Chermoula. For that, you first blanch fresh herbs (including the carrot tops), then shock them in ice water. Combine the herbs with lemon juice, spices, garlic and salt in a blender and slowly pour in grapeseed oil.
Then it’s time to roast the caulini, which just takes about 10 minutes. To plate, spread the labne on a plate. Toss the caulini with the chermoula and place them on the labne. Garnish with segmented grapefruit, sumac and just a sprinkle of za’atar. If you like, drizzle some lemon oil on top. The resulting dish is like a delightful pinball game in your mouth with tartness and creaminess banging against a bit of heat and crunch. It’s as fun to eat as it is beautiful.
Kendall’s second dish is Crispy Skinned Rockfish With Garlic Toum, Marinated Peppers, Lemon Oil and Dill. I couldn’t get enough of this. More garlic! Crispy fish! Crunchy pepper relish filled with pomegranate seeds. It’s a party on a plate.
For the rockfish, make sure you go to a fishmonger and have them filet the fish, leaving the skin on, as well as the head, but removing the spine. Kendall’s trick to ensuring crispy skin is similar to what you do with chicken. Place it in the fridge, uncovered, skin side up, for a few hours.
You already know how to make the garlic toum. The marinated pepper relish is very simple to prepare. You’ll have a variety of fresh peppers, like banana, shishitos or serranos, that you’ll mix with the pomegranate seeds, olive oil, sherry vinegar, sugar and salt.
To cook the rockfish, simply heat a large saute pan — a cast-iron or metal one is best, advised Kendall — and add oil. Place the fish skin-side down and, if you have a grill press, use that to apply even pressure to the fish to keep it from curling. You could also apply firm pressure with a spatula. Cook the fish briefly — just two minutes — until the flesh is almost opaque.
To plate, spread the toum on a platter and top with the rockfish skin-side up. Garnish with the pepper relish and add a bit of chopped fresh dill. With a fork, pull off pieces of the fish and enjoy bites with the relish — maybe on some grilled bread, crackers or pita.
The final dish is Mussels En Escabeche With Castelvetrano Olive-Caper Relish. It could be a meal in itself and, oh, do you need a good sourdough bread for this for dunking in the juices. Kendall likes those from Companion Bread or Wildwood Flour Bakery. Make sure you complement it with some good butter and grill slices, then quarter to create toast pieces.
But first, you’ll make the Olive-Caper Relish, and that’s simple. Just combine pitted, chopped Castelvetrano olives (you can find jars at the better gourmet markets), guindillas peppers — mild, elongated green peppers from the Basque region — also readily available, capers, olive oil, rice vinegar, black pepper and Aleppo pepper. Set the relish aside.
Next, make the mussels. Combine them with white wine and a bundled bunch of thyme, and steam them until they open. Strain into a colander, remove the thyme and cool. Then pick the meat from the mussels and refrigerate.
While they chill, saute a savory mixture of olive oil, onions, bay leaves, cloves, peppercorns, garlic and fennel seeds until the onions start browning. Then turn off the heat and add rice wine vinegar and sherry vinegar, more olive oil, smoked paprika and salt. Bring out the mussels and whisk the spiced liquid before pouring over the mussels. Once it’s all cooled, place into a serving bowl and garnish with the Olive-Caper Relish. Then serve with butter toasted sourdough bread — and some garlic toum.
(Alejandro Tamayo / The San Diego Union-Tribune)
Sumac Roasted Caulini With Grapefruit, Za’atar Labne and Carrot Top Chermoula
Makes 4 servings
INGREDIENTS
For the marinated caulini:
6 ounces sprouted cauliflower, trimmed
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons ground sumac
1 teaspoon Aleppo chile
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon garlic toum (or 2 tablespoons minced garlic)
For the garlic toum:
1/2 cup peeled garlic
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 1/2 cups grapeseed oil
1/4 cup lemon juice
For the za’atar labne:
1 grapefruit, zested with the fruit segmented and reserved for garnish
8 ounces labne
1 teaspoon za’atar
1 lemon, juiced (or 1/8 cup)
For the carrot top chermoula:
2 cups sage leaves
2 cups cilantro leaves
6 cups carrot tops (but not stems)
6 tablespoons lemon juice
2 teaspoons smoked paprika
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander
2 garlic cloves
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2/3 cup grapeseed oil
Caulini in its uncooked state. (Alejandro Tamayo / The San Diego Union-Tribune)
Sumac and other spices are added to the caulini. (Alejandro Tamayo / The San Diego Union-Tribune)
Sumac Roasted Caulini goes into the oven in Hillcrest. (Alejandro Tamayo / The San Diego Union-Tribune)
Carrot top chermoula is spooned atop a base of garlic toum. (Alejandro Tamayo / The San Diego Union-Tribune)
Kendall plates the Sumac Roasted Caulini. (Alejandro Tamayo / The San Diego Union-Tribune)
The finished dish:, Sumac Roasted Caulini. (Alejandro Tamayo / The San Diego Union-Tribune)
Show Caption1 of 6Caulini in its uncooked state. (Alejandro Tamayo / The San Diego Union-Tribune)
ExpandDIRECTIONS
1: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
2: Make the garlic toum: Combine peeled garlic and kosher salt into a food processor. Blend until garlic is finely minced. Scrape the sides of the bowl, put the lid back on, and with the food processor on, slowly drizzle in half of the olive oil. Remove the lid and scrape the sides again. Repeat the process with the other half of the olive oil and lemon juice. Eventually it will become a smooth, creamy, whipped garlic sauce.
3: Marinate the caulini: Combine caulini with all other ingredients in a mixing bowl. Toss well to incorporate everything together. Allow to marinate for at least 30 minutes.
4: Make the zaatar labne: Add all ingredients, except the grapefruit segments, to a metal mixing bowl and whisk to combine.
5: Make the carrot top chermoula: Bring a medium sauce pot with water to a simmer. Fill a small mixing bowl with ice water. Quickly dip or blanch your herbs (sage, cilantro and carrot tops) in the simmering water for a few seconds. Immediately shock the herbs in ice water. Remove them from the ice water and squeeze the excess water from the herbs. Set the grapeseed oil to the side. Combine the rest of the ingredients (including your blanched herbs) except the grapeseed oil into a food processor or blender. Turn it on to low speed and slowly pour in grapeseed oil, blending until the chermoula is smooth.
6: Cook the caulini: Spread the marinated caulini onto a baking tray and roast in the oven at 400 degrees for around 10 minutes or until they are tender.
7: To plate: Spread the labne onto a serving plate. Toss roasted caulini with the carrot top chermoula and place it on top of labne. Garnish with grapefruit segments, sumac and a sprinkle of zaatar. I add a little lemon oil drizzle on mine. You can find lemon oil in most of the fancy grocery stores or in shops like Specialty Produce.
(Alejandro Tamayo / The San Diego Union-Tribune)
Crispy-Skinned Rockfish With Garlic Toum, Marinated Peppers, Lemon Oil and Dill
Makes 2 servings
INGREDIENTS
For the garlic toum:
1/2 cup peeled garlic
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 1/2 cups grapeseed oil
1/4 cup lemon juice
For the marinated pepper relish:
1 cup fresh peppers (such as banana peppers, shishitos, serranos), sliced
1/4 cup pomegranate seeds
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
1 teaspoon sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
One 1 1/2 pound rockfish filet, skin on
Fresh dill sprig
Rockfish, placed skin-side down, is drizzled with oil when ready to cook. (Alejandro Tamayo / The San Diego Union-Tribune)
Preparing relish ingredients for Crispy Skinned Rockfish. (Alejandro Tamayo / The San Diego Union-Tribune)
The rockfish is pressed to help create crispy skin. (Alejandro Tamayo / The San Diego Union-Tribune)
The Crispy Skinned Rockfish is removed from the pan when golden brown. (Alejandro Tamayo / The San Diego Union-Tribune)
Show Caption1 of 4Rockfish, placed skin-side down, is drizzled with oil when ready to cook. (Alejandro Tamayo / The San Diego Union-Tribune)
ExpandDIRECTIONS
1: Prepare the rockfish: Place the rockfish on a baking sheet skin-side up. Allow it to rest in the fridge for a few hours to help dry the skin. When ready to cook, simply drizzle it with olive oil, kosher salt and fresh cracked black pepper to your liking.
2: Make the garlic toum: Combine peeled garlic and kosher salt into a food processor. Blend until garlic is finely minced. Scrape the sides of the bowl, put the lid back on, and with the food processor on, slowly drizzle in half of the olive oil. Remove the lid and scrape the sides again. Repeat the process with the other half of the olive oil and lemon juice. Eventually it will become a smooth, creamy, whipped garlic sauce.
3: Make the marinated pepper relish: Combine all of the ingredients in a mixing bowl and toss to incorporate the flavors. Set aside.
4: Cook the rockfish: Heat a large saute pan with a drizzle of neutral oil on medium high heat. Carefully place the fish skin-side down. Use a fish spatula to apply firm, even pressure to the fillet until it relaxes and lies flat. Periodically press down each fillet and cook until flesh is nearly opaque and cooked through, with just a small raw area on top — about 2 minutes.
5: Carefully using a spatula, flip your fish over and turn off the heat. The residual heat from your pan will cook the fish throughout. Set aside.
6: To plate: Spread the garlic toum onto the plate. Place rockfish skin-side up onto the toum. Garnish with marinated pepper relish over the top along with some fresh chopped dill.
(Alejandro Tamayo / The San Diego Union-Tribune)
Mussels En Escabeche With Castelvetrano Olive-Caper Relish
Makes 4 servings
INGREDIENTS
For the Olive-Caper Relish:
1/4 cup Castelvetrano olives, pitted and chopped
1/4 cup guindillas peppers, chopped (can find jars at gourmet markets or Specialty Produce)
1/4 cup capers
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup rice vinegar
1 teaspoon black pepper
1/2 teaspoon Aleppo chile
For the Mussels En Escabeche:
2 1/2 pounds fresh mussels
3/4 cup white wine
1 bunch thyme
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 small yellow onion, diced
3 bay leaves
2 cloves
5 peppercorns
5 garlic cloves, smashed
1/2 teaspoon fennel seed
1/3 cup rice wine vinegar
1/4 cup sherry vinegar
1/2 tablespoon smoked paprika
1 tablespoon kosher salt
Sourdough bread (Kendall recommends bread from Companion Bread or Wildwood Flour Bakery)
Butter
Kendall sorts through the shellfish for Mussels en Escabeche. (Alejandro Tamayo / The San Diego Union-Tribune)
The finished dish: Mussels En Escabeche.. (Alejandro Tamayo / The San Diego Union-Tribune)
Show Caption1 of 2Kendall sorts through the shellfish for Mussels en Escabeche. (Alejandro Tamayo / The San Diego Union-Tribune)
ExpandDIRECTIONS
1: Make the Olive-Caper Relish: Combine all ingredients in a metal mixing bowl. Set aside.
2: Prepare the mussels: In a medium saucepot on medium heat, combine white wine, the thyme and mussels. Top with a lid and steam mussels for around 6 minutes or until the mussels have just opened up. Once opened, strain mussels into a colander, pick out thyme sprigs, and allow to cool.
3: Once cool enough to handle, pick the meat from the mussels. Be sure to remove the beard by pinching the bristly brown beard and pulling it away from the mussel.
4: Refrigerate the debearded mussels.
5: In a separate sauce pot on medium heat, combine oil, onion, bay leaves, cloves, peppercorns, garlic cloves and fennel seeds. Saute until the onions have started to brown.
6: Once the onions have browned, cut off the heat and add vinegars, olive oil, smoked paprika and kosher salt. Whisk this mixture to combine and pour over the mussels. Allow this mixture to cool.
7: To plate: Add the Mussels En Escabeche to a small serving dish and garnish with a little of Olive-Caper Relish.
8: Serve with butter, toasted sourdough bread (and maybe even some leftover garlic toum).