Tamales date back thousands of years to pre-Hispanic civilization, and the word tamal means steamed cornmeal dough in Nahuatl.
“They were the food of the gods for the Aztecs or Mexica, the Nahuatl-speaking people of the Mexico Valley and what is now Mexico City,” said Sharon Najera, co-owner of Gordito Tamalito in San Diego. “The Aztecs would feed their warriors tamales.”
There are hundreds of tamal variations based on different combinations of ingredients and wrapping leaves. Najera said there are approximately 350 different types of tamales with recipes that originate from various parts of Latin America.
“Tamles are like a taco,” Najera said. “You can pretty much put anything you want in them.”
Najera’s family has been making tamales for over 50 years. Gordito Tamalito specializes in Teotihuacan tamales (mole, rajas, salsa verde and dulce) because Najera’s family is from Mexico City.
Tamales are made with masa, a dough made from ground nixtamalized corn, typically mixed with meat or vegetable broth, salt, baking soda and oil or lard, Najera said. The type of corn used can vary based on the region in Latin America, and in Mexico, there are over 50 types of corn, Najera said. Masa is primarily spread on either corn husks or plantain leaves and filled with various ingredients. They are steamed in a large pot and can take several hours to cook. Najera said her family prepares roughly 1,000 to 1,200 tamales per week and that it takes about 10 to 12 hours with five people helping.
In Mexico, tamales are traditionally sold and eaten in the mornings as a fast option for breakfast, but in the United States tamales are more popular during the holidays when families traditionally get together, Najera said.
Several San Diego County restaurants serve tamales throughout the year, such as Casa Guadalajara in Old Town which offers them as a combination plate, but this guide highlights places that specialize in making and selling tamales. This guide suggests seven businesses where the public can get tamales right now, whether at a brick-and-mortar business or a pop-up vendor consistently found at one location.
El Indio Mexican Restaurant and Catering: Locals can buy tamales that are ready to eat or, new this year, buy them frozen to reheat or purchase the masa to make tamales at home at El Indio Mexican Restaurant and Catering. Customers can purchase pork, beef, chicken, vegetarian and chile with cheese tamales. From Nov. 18 through New Years Day, this San Diego staple also sells sweet tamales with cinnamon, pineapple and coconut. Masa is sold in five and 10 increments and available in red, white, vegetarian and white without salt. El Indio offers instructions on how to assemble, steam and reheat tamales. 3695 India St., San Diego. 619-299-0333, elindiosandiego.com
Lilly Hernandez at the Gordita Tamalito booth shows off four different tamales. Left — a salsa verde tamal, made with vibrant green sauce with fresh cilantro and squash. Front — a rajas beef tamal, made with a traditional tomato-based sauce, enhanced with strips of jalapeño, Oaxaca cheese, squash and peas. Back — a mixiote, exotic lamb dish, marinated, seasoned and steamed in Chile-based sauce and paired with traditional red rice. Right — a dulce tamal, which is sweet dessert-filled with organic pineapple and raisins. (Nelvin C. Cepeda / The San Diego Union-Tribune)
Gordito Tamalito: Najera said her mom would make tamales with mole and salsa recipes from Najera’s grandma in Mexico City before moving to San Diego. Now Najera, her mom and her sister make tamales and sell them locally. Gordito Tamalito’s menu includes tamal dulce with organic pineapple and raisins; tamales de rajas with strips of jalapeno; Oaxaca cheese, peas and squash; and mole. Plus, there is a tamal loco, topped with organic cabbage, Mexican crema and queso fresco with a side of red rice. I sampled the mole tamal on a recent visit. The masa was light and fluffy with smokey, rich flavors from the mole. Large orders must be made two days in advance. 1009 North Harbor Drive, San Diego. 619-906-1235, gorditotamalito.com
Gourmet Tamales vegan green mole and vegetable tamal with homemade red salsa on top.(Carlos Rico / The San Diego Union-Tribune)
Gourmet Tamales: The tamales from Gourmet Tamales are free of lard and gluten. This pop-up vendor sells at various farmers markets throughout the county such as Hillcrest, Little Italy and North Park. It sells a variety of vegan, vegetarian and meat-based tamales, including mushroom and roasted garlic, sweet corn with poblano chiles and cheese and pork loin with roasted green chiles. I tried the vegan green mole and vegetable tamal. The masa was soft and airy, and the tamal was loaded with sweet carrots, zucchini, corn and beans. facebook.com/gourmettamalesoceanside
Tamales Anciras chicharron tamal has spicy green salsa and a couple of salty strips of pork skin.(Carlos Rico / The San Diego Union-Tribune)
Tamales Ancira: The servings at Tamales Ancira in Chula Vista are small in stature but rich in flavor. Since 2007, this business has been serving savory and sweet homemade tamales. They sell them in options with bean and cheese, beef, chicken, cheese and jalapeno, pineapple and picadillo (ground meat, tomatoes and potatoes). I ate the chicharron tamal, which had super spicy green salsa and a couple of salty strips of pork skin. The tamal was on the smaller side, about three to four inches long and about one inch thick. It has about a one-to-one ratio of masa to filling. 2260 Main St. Suite 17, Chula Vista, 619-424-3416, tamalesancira.com
Tamales el Mexicanos pork and salsa verde tamal. (Carlos Rico / The San Diego Union-Tribune)
Tamales El Mexicano: For those who crave tamales throughout the year, there is Tamales El Mexicano in City Heights. This pop-up vendor sells out of a portable three-wheel push cart that looks like a Mexican ice cream cart, in between a liquor store and an AutoZone. Tamales El Mexicano sells tamales with chicken and red salsa, pork with green salsa, rajas, pineapple and raisins. The tamales are masa heavy with about a two-to-one ratio of masa to ingredients inside. The masa was very greasy and the chicken and pork had depths of flavor. The business only accepts cash payments. 3842 University Ave., San Diego. 619-459-1085
Tamales Escondido: In North County, Tamales Escondido makes various tamales and sells them individually or in bulk. The public can choose from sweet tamales such as pineapple and strawberry, vegan tamales with zucchini and mushrooms and meat-based with beef, chicken or pork. Large orders must be made at least one day in advance, according to staff. 831 S. Escondido Blvd., Escondido. 760-975-3734.
The Pizza & Tamales Factory: Tamales and pizza do not seem like they would go together, but they do at the Pizza & Tamales Factory. This establishment sells New York-style pizza and Mexican-style tamales. Customers can purchase pork, chicken, beef, chile cheese and sweet tamales individually or by the dozen. 888 Euclid Ave., San Diego. 619-263-1484, thepizzatamalesfactorymenu.com