Love brought Breandán Kearney to Belgium, and Belgium brought him to beer.
A decade ago, the Irish writer and lawyer followed his sweetheart — now his wife — to her homeland. He found his new home truly foreign.
He didn’t speak the language — or languages, as Dutch, French and German are the country’s official tongues. Moreover, he was unfamiliar with the country’s history, geography and traditions.
But he quickly grasped one central fact: “I saw how beer touched everything in Belgian culture and society,” he said during a phone conversation from his home in Kortrijk, a city about 30 miles outside Ghent.
Curious, he began visiting a brewery a week, buttonholing owners, brewers, publicans. Fascinated, he continued his education by completing a beer sommelier class in England and its American counterpart, the cicerone program. He shared his discoveries in a website, a podcast and a newsletter, all dubbed Belgian Smaak, then as a columnist for Belgian Beer and Food magazine.
And behind many a fantastic brew, he uncovered an equally beguiling tale.
“A naïve part of me wondered whether if I didn’t know anything about these wonderful beers and their stories,” he said, “a lot of people must not know.”
The 24 ales and lagers in Kearney’s new book, “Hidden Beers of Belgium” (Luster, $45), all have fascinating stories. But no two stories — and no two beers — are alike.
A photograph from Breandán Kearney new book Hidden Beers of Belgium. (Ashley Joanna)
There’s the pale ale inspired by tarot and the cult films of Alejandro Jodorowsky. The strong amber saison whose heritage is rooted in the atrocities of an 18th century highwayman. The blonde ale that grew out of a love story that survived a life-threatening accident and the COVID-19 pandemic.
These tales, and 21 more, are all generously illustrated with lip-smacking images from Ashley Joanna, a New York photographer.
If Kearney needed years to uncover these stories, craft beer fans will need time and patience to track down these ales and lagers. The book lists breweries, bottle shops and taverns where each beer is offered, but these occupy distant corners of Belgium.
That’s too bad. Or is it?
Kearney: “The beauty is that’s another good reason to visit Belgium.”
Find out more at belgiansmaak.com.
San Diego Beer Week returns today for 10 days of parties, tasting, beer releases and more. SDBW
SD Beer Week: A Scorecard
My tasting notes from Beer Week ’24, Nov. 1-10, include four winners and one loser.
Winner: Pliny for President, Russian River Brewing. This triple dry-hopped IPA has my vote.
Winner: Super Non-Chunky Peanut Butter Cream Ale Aged on Bourbon Chips, Stone Brewing. Whew! That’s a (delicious) mouthful.
Winner: Platypug, Duck Foot Brewing. A spicy, dry and endearing Belgian-style amber ale.
Winner: Speedway Stout — Chocolate Raspberry Edition, AleSmith Brewing. One of the most decadent — and delicious — desserts I’ve ever drunk.
Loser: Capital of Craft IPA, a lackluster collaboration by six San Diego breweries — each of which brews better beer when left to their own devices.
A souvenir beer mug for the annual Bikes & Beers events nationwide. BIKES & BEERS
The Next Round
Saturday: The 11th annual Bikes & Beer San Digo rally departs from, and returns to, AleSmith Brewing. Start times vary, beginning at 8 a.m., for three routes – 15, 30 and 45 miles. Entry fees start at $75. AleSmith, 9990 AleSmith Court, San Diego. Register at bikesignup.com/Race/CA/SanDiego/BikesandBeers
Nov. 30: Beer by the Bay, a fundraiser for Honor Flight, Toys for Tots and other military-related causes, will take place from noon to 5 p.m. Next weekend at the Coronado Ferry Landing. Coronado, Societe, Bay City and other breweries will be highlighted. 1201 First St., Coronado. $60-$150. beerbythebay.com
Quick Sips, Fall Colors Edition
Bakerz Dozen, a West Coast IPA from McIlhenny brewing in Alpine. PETER ROWE
Beer: Baker’z DozenFrom: McIlhenney, AlpineAlcohol by volumne (ABV): 7%Style: West Coast India Pale AleDrink or dump: Drink. The McIlhenneys must’ve peddled their souls to the Hop Devil. That would explain their uncanny skill at conjuring IPAs like this one, with pine resin and citrus notes floating over a biscuity malts. Baker’z uses Simcoe, Dynaboost Simcoe, Zumo, Krush and Hyperboost Krush hops, but McIlhenney could work miracles with Totally Krushed hops.
Port of Coffee port beer from Hopnonymous brewery in San Diego. PETER ROWE
Port of CoffeeFrom: Hopnonymous, San DiegoABV: 6%Style: PorterDrink or dump: Drink. This English-style brew has a charming SoCal accent, which emerges in the brisk hop bitterness at the finish. The color of an uncreamed Americano, Port of Coffee smacks of mocha, of course, yet – surprise, surprise – has a model-thin body.
Berliner Weisse from BRLO brewery in Berlin, Germany.
Berliner WeisseFrom: BRLO, Berlin, GermanyABV: 4%Style: Berliner WeisseDrink or dump: Drink. Who would suspect that a Berlin brewery would nail the quintessential beer style? Faded straw in color, this is a tart beer that finishes dry and smooth — it’s easy on your palate and tastes like sour apples and fresh baked bread.